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» Honda B Series OBDII into 99-00 EK |
Thanks to ef legacyThis is another topic that im sure could be useful here on the JDMU website.
This write up will cover the wiring aspect of all B-series motors, VTEC and NON VTEC being swapped into the 99-00 EK chassis.
I will assume that you already have a complete (including correct OBD ECU for your chassis) B18B1/B16A/B18C1/B18C5 in your posession.
NOTE: You CANNOT use an OBD2 Integra engine harness in your EK civic chassis because the EK harness is a one-piece design as opposed to the Integra's two-piece design.
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Wiring for the 99-00 is actually identical to the 96-98 just the ECU pin locations change and a few other modifications.
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You can go about the wiring 1 of 3 ways:
Option #1:
-Utilize your stock CX/DX/LX Wiring harness
Option #2:
You will need:
-99-00 Civic EX engine harness (DO NOT GET AN AUTO EX HARNESS, ONLY A 5-speed harness)
Option #3:
You will need:
-99-00 Civic Si engine harness
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For reference as to exactly which ECU pins and connectors I am talking about, use this link as a guide for you ECU.
.:FFS TechNet : OBD2b ECU Connector Schematics :.
NOTE: Try and stay as close to the factory wire colors (if possible) in order to aid you in remembering which wires go where, However if you cant do this, dont worry, use whatever you have availible to you.
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Option #1
a) Run a grn/yellow wire from ECU pin B12 to the VTEC solenoid (VTEC B-series only)
b) Run a blue/blk wire from ECU pin C10 to the VTEC pressure switch (VTEC B-series only)
c) Run a red/blue wire from ECU C3 to the Knock sensor (VTEC B-series only)
d) IACV plug will need to be switched from a 3-wire to a 2-wire version and some ECU wires need to be moved around.
-On the "B" ECU plug, remove the blk/blue wire from pin B6 and move it to pin B23
-On the same "B" ECU plug, De-pin B15 and wrap with electrical tape, it is no longer needed.
-Either cut off your new B-series harness or find a B-series IACV plug.
-On the civic 3-wire plug, de-pin the orange wire and wrap it up with electrical tape, it is not needed.
-From the 3-wire civic plug, cut+splice the yellow/blk wire onto the grn/blk wire on the new 2-wire plug.
-From the 3-wire civic plug, cut+splice the blk/blue wire onto the blk wire on the new 2-wire plug.
e) Run a wire (think its a pink/blue wire not sure though) from ECU pin B16 to the IAB sensor (GSR only)
f) Extend the 2nd O2 sensor wires
g) Crank Fluctuation Sensor (CFK) MOD (JDM MOTORS ONLY/US MOTORS DO NOT NEED THIS WIRING MOD): JDM motors dont have Crank sensors, so the ECU must be tricked into thinking a CFK is still wired in.
-A helpful tool to get (not absolutely needed though) are scotch-lock/tape-splicers AKA quick splices. You will need 2 of them, should be able to get them at home depot or radioshack.
Here is what they look like:
http://superlumination.com/images/au...ick_splice.jpg
NOTE: Follow these instructions exactly how I say or else you can potentially have a CEL #9 light come on.
-Ok on ECU "C" plug locate pin C22 and C29, from the connector, run C22 and C29 into the quick splice, on the other side of the quick splice that is headed toward the engine, cut the C22 wire and disregard it, there should be only the C29 wire headed toward the engine.
-Ok on the same ECU "C" plug, locate pin C30 and C31, from the connector, run C30 and C31 into the quick splice, on the other side of the quick splice that is headed toward the engine, cut the C31 wire and disregard it, there should be only the C30 wire headed toward the engine.
Another problem you will run into when using your stock harness is that the Dizzy plug will be different than the B-series plug.
This can be fixed by using a 96-98 EX dizzy plug, a 99-00 Si Dizzy plug, or a 96-01 Integra Dizzy plug. Just match up the wires and viola, you can now plug in your Dizzy!
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If you do Option #2
-Steps A-D are already integrated into the factory EX harness.
-Steps E-G will still need to be done.
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If you do Option #3
-Steps A-D are already integrated into the factory Si harness.
-Step E will need to be done (If swapping in a GSR engine)
-Step F changes because on the 99-00 Si the 2nd O2 sensor plug is located on the interior harness. So the 2nd O2 sensor will need to be manually wired in.
-This can be done by:
-Run the White wire to ECU pin A23
-Run the Green wire to ECU pin C18
-Run 1 Black wire to ECU pin A8
-Run the other Black wire to ECU pin B1
-Step G Depends on if you are using a JDM or USDM B-series.
-JDM engines will still require the above mentioned mods in option #1
-USDM engines will be plug and play with the Si harness.
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NOTE: If you plan on using a 00-01 Integra ECU in your EK, you will need to have the immobilizer removed or else your car wont start. (this can be done at the dealership, has to be reflashed) Also if you use the 00-01 Integra ECU the fuel pump wire (pin A16) will need to be moved to pin A15. (OBD2 civic's and integra's differ from each other) If you use a 99-00 Si ECU, you DO NOT need to move this pin, nor do you need to have the immobilizer removed because there isnt one.
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CODE 91 Problems:
If using a USDM OBD2 Integra ECU in your EK, there has been CEL code 91's popping up suggesting the fuel tank pressure is not adequate. However this code is chassis specific as some civic's have this sensor in the gas tank and some dont, unfortunately I cant tell you which civic has the sensor and which dont, but I do have some suggestions as to what do to to hopefully fix the problem:
1. Change the ECU out for a different one of your OBD type, mainly you would need to get ahold of a JDM ECU because they dont look for FTP sensors. Only downside to this is that if you try and get your car BAR'd (IN CALIFORNIA that I know of because that is where I live) it wont pass because it is a JDM ECU.
2. Swap gas tanks with a known running 99 Si gas tank, this will eliminate the code altogether. You will more than likely need to wire in the FTP sensor when you swap the tank.
3. Fool the ECU by providing the ECU with a similar voltage the FTP would normally send.
-this can be done by purchasing a 10k OHM linear potentiometer. Radioshack sells these (P/N: 271-1715) The 2 outter pins are the ground and +5v refrence (doesnt matter which one goes where) and the center pin is the output to the ECU.
For OBD2a ECU's:
ECU pin D10: +5v
ECU pin D11: Ground
ECU pin D15: FTP input
For OBD2b ECU's:
ECU pin C28: +5v
ECU pin C18: Ground
ECU pin A29: FTP input
4. Convert to OBD1, the most expensive choice.
5. A random article I can across said that the CEL light only comes on after the car has been sitting overnight of for an extended period of time. It reads, "I found a way to get around the code but isn't a true fix. You have to put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position (radio on, but the car is off), and count to 10 slowly then crank the car. That will pressurize the fuel lines and the code will not come on. "
Thats It, your Done! You can now enjoy your new B-series swap in you EK.
Hope this helps.
ORIGINAL THREAD LINK
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