Quote:
Originally Posted by killakam666
all throttle i wanna see your ride,
on a side note.
isnt a swap a swap, why do people call them JDM swaps? an engine is an engine. right?
thread starter just go H22  |
Namely because JDM denotes the tune of the engine
UK spec
US spec
J spec
AUS spec
etc..
Slightly different specs due to emmissions, tax laws etc... so a "JDM" swap would denote a Japanese spec engine if using the "JDM" properly
As far as the F20B I am actually researching the swap myself and have concluded for ALL motor types like myself it might actually be the slightly better way to go.
For one, the F20B has a better rod stroke ratio...while some may just shrug this off consider the piston speeds at 9000rpm and realize it matters for all motor racers looking for rpm
Secondly its a regular sleeve material which means you can bore it for aftermarket pistons much easier...no FRM garbage to worry about
The head is an H22 head with slightly smaller (1mm smaller) intake valves. The exhaust valves are the same and as a bonus the MANUAL version of the F20B (which is the only one I would consider out of the gate) comes with Type S cams (noted for their blue color tint)
This means you get slightly more agressive cams than an H22, metal sleeves (no 800 sleeve job required) and its significantly cheaper
So for 950-1050 you get a motor thats better suited to NA applications than a standard H22 and you save yourself at least $600-800 in the process right off the bat....the 55mm main H22s go for 1600-1900 for the head/block combos....
Since the block is the same you can easily go to a larger bore if wanted...
The jumping off point becomes the size vs rev question....the F20B's dimensions lend itself towards high rev applications but wont make the torque of the larger 2.3-2.4L combos out there...but its very easy to just hone the block and drop in some high compression pistons, stronger rods and rev it higher than you would a longer stroke combo
With basic mods the motor will make over 200+whp without much drama....if you get crazy and start using K series intake manis, higher comp pistons, forged rods, $$$ header you will see alot more power....so you have quite a bit of room to grow with even the stock stuff before a serious "build"
If your goal is 200-230whp...the F20B is the obvious choice over the H22....if you ever get the itch to go bigger an F22 block, forged 101mm crank/rods/K series pistons away from some BIG torque numbers
The hardest part is making sure you get the MANUAL F20B....to be sure make sure the engine comes with a FLYWHEEL ....they are slim pickings but the MANUAL version is the one you want
Other than that its a straightforward swap....QSD kit + B series mounts (probably want a stiff HAsport kit) + B series axles (might want slightly stronger axles), linkage (B series) etc...very easy....youll probably want an H2B header (a cheap well performing header is like a Camp 1320 H2B $375-400 shipped)
All together it will cost about what a GSR swap costs but youll make loads more hp and torque and mod for mod youll make even more....
With traction most hatches would run low 13's to high 12's with just this swap...with a few more mods it should take it to low 12's...and since its not "built" you could easily take the bolt-ons off and part it out should you finish a G23 motor or use those pieces on that motor.....RBC mani etc...QSD makes an adapter for the H22 intake bolt patter...plus a ported RBC ($200 + 500 port job) will support 330+whp so you can run a cheap mani now and then when you are ready have it ported for more power when you can flow it