For those reading along I will break down the H2B things to keep in mind
Mounts
You CAN run stock B series mounts (soft rubber)....but with the power you will be making and launching...youll probably want either the Mugen hard rubber bushing mounts or HAsport mounts...so price varies depending on you choice here
Axles
You CAN get away with standard B series stuff here but again...you will be making much more torque and if your launching...you may snap an axle...there are some decent 300hp axles out there for NA guys but I think they go for 300-350 a set....obvioulsy stock is much cheaper
Linkage
I would try to source ITR linkage if you can...but standard B series linkage will work...try to find some hard bushing inserts to get rid of the slop...old linkage = old soft bushings
ECU
Guys have wired up F/H ecus up just fine ...you CAN use it...but remember you will be wanting to add power/tuning capabilities in the future so why not just start with that adjustibility to tune your setup....you can always sell the ECU to the prelude/accord guys
Manifolds
Again....the IABs are a pain and some companies make spacers for them etc...the Euro R is an upgrade and the Skunk 2 is even better for higher revs....the third and most attractive to me is either the RBC or RRC manifolds...Import Builders/Blueprint actually ports these manifolds for K series guys and they make/support CRAZY power levels because they FLOW and maintain velocity at the same time....I am lazy so rather than install the motor and then later change the mani I would probably slap the RRC mani on to begin with and save my back from having to take the mani out once the engine is in. Again...stock is cheaper...RRC upgrade is worth it...your call
Exhaust
This is another source of $$$...you CAN run a stock H22 type header but you have to bend it to fit....this creates a slight restriction but its free...or you can spend 375-400shipped for a Camp 1320 H2B header....your call...the H2B header WILL make power...defenitely worth the small asking price NEW...you may find a used one cheaper....also you will want to run a 2.5" header bck exhaust...or find a hiflo cat to slap in as well...either way 2.5" is the smallest I would run with this swap...the 2.5" header back is usaully 150-300...K teller makes a great inexpensive exhaust thats guaranteed 2.5"...not 2.25 like a Greddy or something like that
As you can see this swap can be cheap in bare bones trim and cost a little more if you take the time to upgrade before you install
With a header, 3-3.5" intake piping, upgraded intake mani and tuning, this setup should have no problems going well past 200+whp....thats serious NA power with room to grow
You can step up to Pro 1 cams and make even more....alot of used cams are going for like 500 a set or less with cam gears already...PLUS since you got the manual F20B you can sell the Type S cams/springs it came with....
What I like most is the head should never come off and it will be making enough power for 12's in a "fat" street civic...thats plenty fast for a simple daily IMO...and more power than 99.9% of people will expect...SUPRISE
