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Just picked up my Talon


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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2009, 04:22 PM
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I appreciate it, bro.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:16 AM
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So the clutch is on it's last legs so I decided to pop her in the garage and commence kickoff! [srry took pics with my phone]









Only popped off the valve cover and upper timing cover just to take a peek. It's actually quite clean for a 15 yr old car. No sludge or gunky buildup at all. Can't wait to dig in further!
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:31 PM
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6 bolt, Cams, Forced performance red turbo+ manifold, DSM link, big fmic, meth, nice clutch...and shazam, 11 second car.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-09-2009, 05:43 PM
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How about all that on the stock short block. Ported 1G head and intake mani. Walbro with 650cc injectors. Eh? Eh?
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Ax View Post
How about all that on the stock short block. Ported 1G head and intake mani. Walbro with 650cc injectors. Eh? Eh?
Again, 95-96 bottom ends are notorious for crank walk if you don't take care of it, due to the poor oiling.

Plus the 6-bolt blocks came with lower compression pistons than the 7-bolt blocks, which allows them to run more boost.

If I were you AX, I'd look into the BOTTOM END as that's where the most headache will be on the 2G DSMs.

Even if you don't have room at your place to do work, just try to rent out a shop space or if you know someone that will let you park the car there for a bit or whatever, but believe me, not much you have to do to the top end on these engines, it's the bottom end that has issues.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2009, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoSideways View Post
Again, 95-96 bottom ends are notorious for crank walk if you don't take care of it, due to the poor oiling.

Plus the 6-bolt blocks came with lower compression pistons than the 7-bolt blocks, which allows them to run more boost.

If I were you AX, I'd look into the BOTTOM END as that's where the most headache will be on the 2G DSMs.

Even if you don't have room at your place to do work, just try to rent out a shop space or if you know someone that will let you park the car there for a bit or whatever, but believe me, not much you have to do to the top end on these engines, it's the bottom end that has issues.
Again, I hear what you're sayin, bro. Because believe me, I've already gone through copious amounts of pondering when it comes to crankwalk. I just simply don't have the time nor funds to spend on it. Plus, not all 7 bolts crankwalk. In fact, there are many more out there that are perfectly fine, than ones who's crank took a walk. So I just can't justify putting all that time, effort and money into a problem that might not even exist.

And like I said before. If the thrust bearing decides to F me over, I'll deal with it then. I'll just keep my fingers crossed and keep my eye out for now.

And I do appreciate your advice
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 04:53 AM
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It is true that all motors ever made have the ability to cw (crankwalk) but 95-96 dsms are one of the most common and well known for it.

People try to say that these motors are crap and always blow up/break but thats simply from stupid neglecting owners! the nick name for the 4G63T is "bullet proof" of course if you take care of things it will be.

You are right and not all 2g's crank walk. its not set in stone on which ones will cw or not. ANY and i repeat ANY 2g motor is capable. its just random depending on circumstances. to help urself don't put a bigger/stiffer clutch in then is absolutely necessary for ur power or power goals. always check ur oil and make sure your full. also get a oil pressure gauge to make sure you have proper pressure at all times while driving.

I always choose and advise 6 bolts but having higher compression in ur motor isn't bad, a 6 bolt american has 7:8:1 compression, jap spec is 8:1:1 and 2g motors have 8:5:1. all it means is you get more power with less boost. but you can't put as much boost. its a trade off. if ur motor isn't fucked don't just pull it out and throw it away for a 6 bolt its just pointless.

as far as turbos don't waste ur time with a 14b. you said "but it can push 20 psi" that doesn't mean anything. psi is only half the equation. you have to look at cfm and psi.

the psi messures how compressed the air is, the cfm is the amount of air the turbo can push out. the 14b can only do 21psi for about 275hp with supporting mods max flowing 405 cfm. ur stock turbo flows a little less then that. a evo 3 big 16g flows about 560 cfm and is capable of 28 psi and 400hp with supporting mods.

super important to remember is that every turbo has a "efficiency range". which means turning up the boost past a certain psi will make the turbo less efficient at making power, and actually make less power, because the higher the psi the hotter the turbo makes the air it puts out hotter air=less power. so ur better off picking a bigger turbo running lower boost for better efficiency instead of maxing out a turbo. And remember the higher the boost levels the quicker you will break a turbo.

p.s. forced performance is having a special on evo 3 16g's $499 shipped which is sweet considering they go for over $600 usually.

p.s.s. while your doing all the work to your motor you should replace ur balance shaft belt or remove them with a removal kit. and def put a new timing belt on. they should be replaced every 60k miles anyways. ur in there just do it now.

Do ur self a HUGE favor and before you touch another bolt on this car sit down and figure out what goal you have for this car. is it a 1/4 time? or hp goal? figure out ur goal do some research and find out what you need and do it once and do it right.
Because it will save you from doing things twice like putting the stock headgasket and head studs in and then you turn around and want to run over 15psi then you have to take the head back off and put a multi layer headgasket and arp head studs in.
Even with 400hp doing a 11 somthing in the 1/4 you only need a act 2100 clutch.

More boost means more fuel as well.

ur stock blow off valve won't hold more then like 16psi. you can get a 1g bov and crush it and it will hold more but i can't remember the max.

I'll stop ranting now. feel free to ask me if you have any questions I'm always more then happy to help!

Last edited by BulletShiftTSi; 09-21-2009 at 03:22 AM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 01:08 AM
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Yea, the only reason I considered a 14B was because I had the opportunity to get a free one. But turbo and necessary fuel upgrades are down the road. Probably after I graduate college. But we shall see.

Thanks for your comments on cmf and efficiency. Good points.

I planned on doing a timing belt kit and water pump.

I found a Greddy look-alike BOV in the hatch. I'll fab up an adapter in my high school's metal shop.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 01:18 AM
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UPDATE

Took off the intercooler and all piping. Soaked and washed out all the oil and crap from the IC with hot water and dish soap. Removed the exhaust manifold for shitsngigs.













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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2009, 03:22 PM
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NEW OIL PRESSURE GAUGE

Well, I figured while I wait on parts to get here I'd hook up the new OP gauge.

GlowShift Elite Series - 10 Color LED with High and Low level warning beep and Peak value recall.



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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 02:45 PM
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They're finally here...

Taylor 10.4mm wires, ARP Head Studs, NGK R BPR7ES Plugs, OEM fuel filter and thermostat




Getting ready to prep for paint. Red with white letters.


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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
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DSMs have a bad rep for being unreliable, but that's only because they are neglected. So within the next month or so I'll tear apart the top end and clean and replace most everything. Head gasket, studs, possibly lifters, complete top end gasket kit, timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump. I'll take the valve cover and exhaust manifold and sand blast em to look nice. And I'll send the head in to get everything cleaned/checked, studs put in for the exhaust manifold and the cast lines taken off the ports.
Very good idea taking it upon yourself to tear it down and make it right. Hopefully she will hold together for you well. Good luck!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 08:55 PM
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Thx bro.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2009, 11:30 PM
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looks like you got a great start, keep it up. The crushed BOV option listed above works great and you dont have to worry about plumbing issues when routing your hoses as it will be near stock.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 12:30 AM
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dsm doesnt start much lol good luck with it... my buddy had one and once he put on a bigger turbo i think it was a 16g he kept blowin trannys
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