Thinking about doing a JDM F20B swap... any advice

[SergEK]

For those reading along I will break down the H2B things to keep in mind

Mounts
You CAN run stock B series mounts (soft rubber)....but with the power you will be making and launching...youll probably want either the Mugen hard rubber bushing mounts or HAsport mounts...so price varies depending on you choice here

Axles
You CAN get away with standard B series stuff here but again...you will be making much more torque and if your launching...you may snap an axle...there are some decent 300hp axles out there for NA guys but I think they go for 300-350 a set....obvioulsy stock is much cheaper

Linkage
I would try to source ITR linkage if you can...but standard B series linkage will work...try to find some hard bushing inserts to get rid of the slop...old linkage = old soft bushings

ECU
Guys have wired up F/H ecus up just fine ...you CAN use it...but remember you will be wanting to add power/tuning capabilities in the future so why not just start with that adjustibility to tune your setup....you can always sell the ECU to the prelude/accord guys

Manifolds
Again....the IABs are a pain and some companies make spacers for them etc...the Euro R is an upgrade and the Skunk 2 is even better for higher revs....the third and most attractive to me is either the RBC or RRC manifolds...Import Builders/Blueprint actually ports these manifolds for K series guys and they make/support CRAZY power levels because they FLOW and maintain velocity at the same time....I am lazy so rather than install the motor and then later change the mani I would probably slap the RRC mani on to begin with and save my back from having to take the mani out once the engine is in. Again...stock is cheaper...RRC upgrade is worth it...your call

Exhaust
This is another source of $$$...you CAN run a stock H22 type header but you have to bend it to fit....this creates a slight restriction but its free...or you can spend 375-400shipped for a Camp 1320 H2B header....your call...the H2B header WILL make power...defenitely worth the small asking price NEW...you may find a used one cheaper....also you will want to run a 2.5" header bck exhaust...or find a hiflo cat to slap in as well...either way 2.5" is the smallest I would run with this swap...the 2.5" header back is usaully 150-300...K teller makes a great inexpensive exhaust thats guaranteed 2.5"...not 2.25 like a Greddy or something like that

As you can see this swap can be cheap in bare bones trim and cost a little more if you take the time to upgrade before you install

With a header, 3-3.5" intake piping, upgraded intake mani and tuning, this setup should have no problems going well past 200+whp....thats serious NA power with room to grow

You can step up to Pro 1 cams and make even more....alot of used cams are going for like 500 a set or less with cam gears already...PLUS since you got the manual F20B you can sell the Type S cams/springs it came with....

What I like most is the head should never come off and it will be making enough power for 12's in a "fat" street civic...thats plenty fast for a simple daily IMO...and more power than 99.9% of people will expect...SUPRISE

[alejo98cx]

Wow dude, so much info!

Your saying B series mounts (you said stock so do you mean the ones for the B16A2 in the 99-00 Si? I know im wrong here but explain please) will work for mounting the F engine in my car?

I think I would run the motor stock aside from i/h/e (Already have a cat back)

I was thinking of a H22 or F series Tranny but this B series thing catches my eye because then I dont have to change to the cable shifter right? although cable shifters do seems pretty sweet (no more moving gear shifter)

I dont care about Ac that much or power steering (add weight/steal power!)

How do I wire up the Ecu's/make them work for my car? this is my biggest worry and whats making me hesitate about a motor swap Vs. turbo I am kind of intimidated by wiring

Also (Probably stupid again) What is H2B? Im guessing its just short for H series to B series or something

[SergEK]

Originally Posted by alejo98cx

Wow dude, so much info!

Your saying B series mounts (you said stock so do you mean the ones for the B16A2 in the 99-00 Si? I know im wrong here but explain please) will work for mounting the F engine in my car?

Yes....the QSD H22 2 B series trans adapter kit has seperate plates/mounts that will align with the stock mount B series locations...so when you convert your mounts to B series the QSD adapters will adapt to B series trans/mounts....they also make sure the axle alignment is near perfect which running an H series trans definitely DOES NOT...lots of broken axles with standard H22 swap using special H22 mounts...they suck and people are never really happy with it


I think I would run the motor stock aside from i/h/e (Already have a cat back)

A stock Manual F20B setup wont be too bad....should be about 180-185whp...with a header and intake probably 195-205whp

I was thinking of a H22 or F series Tranny but this B series thing catches my eye because then I dont have to change to the cable shifter right? although cable shifters do seems pretty sweet (no more moving gear shifter)

Cables = GARBAGE --- no shift feel, sometimes the shift doesnt even happen (ask the prelude guys trying to shift at 9K rpm ) plus you have to cut the shifter tunnel to fit the cable linkage box...BOOOO cutting up the factory floorpan is BOOO....which is why when guys went H22 they just sold the car rather than rewelding the tunnel to mount B series shifter again

I dont care about Ac that much or power steering (add weight/steal power!)

Same here...although it would be wise to get a manual rack or build a resevior for the P/S fluid to work itself from one end to the other...keeps the rack lubed and you wont have to fight the fluid.

How do I wire up the Ecu's/make them work for my car? this is my biggest worry and whats making me hesitate about a motor swap Vs. turbo I am kind of intimidated by wiring

Wiring is very similar to a B series GSR motor...both the H22 and GSR have the butterfly intake manifolds....which is why I reccomended the RRC or RBC manifold....no butterflies to wire up and MORE POWER!!! lol

Also (Probably stupid again) What is H2B? Im guessing its just short for H series to B series or something

Nail on the head ---- H/F motor to B series trans/mounts....the cubes and power potential of the bigger block with the gearing advantage of the B series

While the most powerful stock swap is the J30/32 swap with a 6spd manual its still very very very rare so most people are still using the big 4cyls....both the K and the H heads FLOW but the newer K head has a few advantages that Honda learned from the H22 motors...the K will always make more low end/midrange power compared to the H motors but peak power should be similar...with the obvious advatage going to the K...BUT when you consider the costs involved...the H just makes alot more sense and the B series trans is the deal maker....cable trans = garbage....hydro trans = sickness!!!

Cable trans burn through synchros much quicker for some reason...newer manual cars are so sensitive...they get grinds very easily...tranny work isnt cheap so Id rather rock a solid shifting trans anyday of the week!

The best part of the H2B is when the motor sits straight up like a B series it looks like the HULK version of a B16 lol....

Oh with the EK you wont have to mod your hood for clearance either...at the most just prop the back up with a few washers

Oh and as well all know....H22's sounds so much deeper in VTEC ...just a bonus

[alejo98cx]

I want to do this so bad but I think the costs are unreasonbale for me, that QSD Kit is almost $1000 (Cad.) plus engine $1000 Trans $400 (junker from early integra?) Probs a bunch of other crap $600 so about $3000?

F20B = Priceless

Is my transmission (Y7) Hydro? Does it make a differnece for instilation because B series is right?

I think I should buy this engine before it gets sold though and sell it again for more! What you think A rebuilt F20B is worth? with intake, alt, dist, chrome headers.