im new to this... whats the best stuff?(motors?)

[tico_ek9]

CHECK out www.n1concepts.com they have great deals on motors

[SergEK]

Originally Posted by ef legacy

400 whp is 11's?? shit you better be in the fuckn real low elevens oh high tens bro, or else you suck at driving, my hatch put down 222 w/a 40 shot and i have ran a 11.9 on a LS/VTEC in my eg hatch. now your tellin me someone with roughly about 150+ whp cant make it into the tens?? your sick bro

First of all 400whp turbo Ds are rare but traps 125-130 and can go 10's IF they are in a light chassis...but throw it in a 3000lb 4 door EK with stereo crap and see if its still runs 10's

Secondly NA whp is different from turbo hp...my friends B20/v went high 11's with a little more than 210whp but didnt trap anywhere near the 127mph the 405whp D series did...did you trap 127 with your small shot? I highly doubt it.

You can take a shit bucket 85 CRX and run 10's with it with a stock B16 on boost but not every guy on this board is rolling around in a 1500lb tin can

Lastly 11's are 11's are 11's...400whp street Hondas run 11's on avg...mostly because of traction issues...a few guys have gone quicker (light weight/slicks) but on AVERAGE thats what you get.

Trap is power
ET a combination of power/traction/weight/gearing

Your 11.9 was probably 110-115 and that 127mph trap D would eat you for lunch from a 60 roll on but "only" went 11.4 with the "150" more hp

[ef legacy]

i trapped 118, duh a turbo car making 400+ would eat me on top end bro, and those 127 traps means that car should be in the tens regardless of how much it weighs, it needs slicks. that will = 10's stock ek 4 doors dont weigh that much anyway, more like high 2600 lbs.

[SergEK]

Originally Posted by ef legacy

i trapped 118, duh a turbo car making 400+ would eat me on top end bro, and those 127 traps means that car should be in the tens regardless of how much it weighs, it needs slicks. that will = 10's stock ek 4 doors dont weigh that much anyway, more like high 2600 lbs.

Add a driver, taco bell wrappers and maybe a sub box...hell some of these mid west boys are like 250lbs alone lol

Saying "regardless of weight" is a major error....a 7000lbs Civic isnt going to run 10's with 400whp even with slicks

As you know FWD cars always trap high because most of them are high revving back 1/8th screamers...25-30mph trap increases on the back 1/8th ...comparing them to the avg 400+whp SBC slick clad 4.40 rear end Classic camaro that runs 10's isnt exactly accurate either.

Boosted Hondas always trap high for their given ET....mainly traction/weight transfer and because of the torque plot...all top end, back 1/8th

The point is saying XYZ horsepower is 10's isnt accurate because its depending on weight/traction/gearing/driver ability etc....

Can someone go 10's with 400whp...yes...will everyone go 10's with 400whp HELL NO

Ive seen too many 2JZ retards with 600-750+whp running 12's@120+ to know that power is just ONE part of a good ET

Hell EVO X's with bolt-ons will run 11's with 3XXwhp but their traps suck...112-114 ...again the little SOHC would eat them up on the highway

The Civic had slicks, cut good 60's and was told needed a cage to run again...

Could he gut it, gear it and run 10's...probably...but being the street car, full glass, full interior baby seat in the car setup made more sense than worrying about the absoloute lowest ET it could run IF it was lighter, geared more agressively

Weight on Hondas is CRUCIAL ...most smart street racers can take a budget setup and clean up because people are used to street weight, full glass car ETs...dump 5-700lbs out and that setup is MUCH quicker than what the "avg" Honda will put down with the exact same setup...look at the 10 sec hacked up CRX from the 818 boys here in Cali...K20R, ITBs 240-250whp and 10's...I cant imagine how much money they made against fully built Bs thinking they could take a "stock K20R"

Im not sick, thats just how Hondas are

[MickCollinsb16b]

Originally Posted by alexanderig

Na k24 bottom k20 head itbs

boost k24/k20 boost lol

[ef legacy]

Originally Posted by SergEK

Add a driver, taco bell wrappers and maybe a sub box...hell some of these mid west boys are like 250lbs alone lol

Saying "regardless of weight" is a major error....a 7000lbs Civic isnt going to run 10's with 400whp even with slicks

As you know FWD cars always trap high because most of them are high revving back 1/8th screamers...25-30mph trap increases on the back 1/8th ...comparing them to the avg 400+whp SBC slick clad 4.40 rear end Classic camaro that runs 10's isnt exactly accurate either.

Boosted Hondas always trap high for their given ET....mainly traction/weight transfer and because of the torque plot...all top end, back 1/8th

The point is saying XYZ horsepower is 10's isnt accurate because its depending on weight/traction/gearing/driver ability etc....

Can someone go 10's with 400whp...yes...will everyone go 10's with 400whp HELL NO

Ive seen too many 2JZ retards with 600-750+whp running 12's@120+ to know that power is just ONE part of a good ET

Hell EVO X's with bolt-ons will run 11's with 3XXwhp but their traps suck...112-114 ...again the little SOHC would eat them up on the highway

The Civic had slicks, cut good 60's and was told needed a cage to run again...

Could he gut it, gear it and run 10's...probably...but being the street car, full glass, full interior baby seat in the car setup made more sense than worrying about the absoloute lowest ET it could run IF it was lighter, geared more agressively

Weight on Hondas is CRUCIAL ...most smart street racers can take a budget setup and clean up because people are used to street weight, full glass car ETs...dump 5-700lbs out and that setup is MUCH quicker than what the "avg" Honda will put down with the exact same setup...look at the 10 sec hacked up CRX from the 818 boys here in Cali...K20R, ITBs 240-250whp and 10's...I cant imagine how much money they made against fully built Bs thinking they could take a "stock K20R"

Im not sick, thats just how Hondas are

ok lets get this straight we are talkn about the guy who started this thread bro not some imaginary cars, there are no 7000 lb civics anywhere u said "street hondas" and "turbo D's" he falls into both categories. and since he was askn about his car, it is only assumed that you are telln him to turbo his "d." yes if you are running 11's trapping 1 twenty somethings, they sure as hell better b in the 10's no B.S! in even his "street civic" unless you are saying you or he cant drive. idk, and dont try that "he must be on street tires b.s! any idiot will know that tryn to take thier "400+whp" civic to the track better know they aint doin shit without slicks! again we arent talking about supras or evos either. dnt even know y that is in there, moving on, weight is crucial on anything bro bikes, cars, fuk even that fat kid that rides bmx! but if you are sayn 11's trapping 120-129, better b a ten in my book, better learn how to drive or take up knitting.

[gemekem1]

"Get the b18c5(ITR). Its the B series with the most hp. its even got 3 more horspower than the k20a3 and its cheaper then going k series. Its also not as difficult as doing a k swap, from what i hear. thats just my 2 cents. But yah the k20a from a mugen RR is insane 260hp Stock. !!!!!"

Thats what i was going to say untill reading about the HP numbers on the H and F series from SergEK. But isnt their a delima about those swaps? something having to do with power to weight ratio?? (just asking, dont flame on me because of this question). !!!!

[Lostdreams]

K swaps are a pain in the ass!! helped did 2 n i must say i doubt i going be doing 1 anytime soon

[Weifast]

Hands down K motors. Where aftermarket support is heading. IF you want something really cheap, just get a B16a or a B18C1 and call it a day.

[SergEK]

Originally Posted by gemekem1

"Get the b18c5(ITR). Its the B series with the most hp. its even got 3 more horspower than the k20a3 and its cheaper then going k series. Its also not as difficult as doing a k swap, from what i hear. thats just my 2 cents. But yah the k20a from a mugen RR is insane 260hp Stock. !!!!!"

Thats what i was going to say untill reading about the HP numbers on the H and F series from SergEK. But isnt their a delima about those swaps? something having to do with power to weight ratio?? (just asking, dont flame on me because of this question). !!!!

Thank god someone is reading my posts! lol

For the money you cant beat an H2B...its just not possible (NA)

The current cost (retail) of a full K swap is still at least 6-8K depending on goodies when I was considering it the price was 10-12K

While prices have dropped quite a bit there are a few nagging details about Ks

Namely the transmission -- check out the K boys and see how many "blown tranny" threads you find...worn synchros and blown motors (wrong gear over-rev)

I prefer a rod actuated trans like a B series. Being NA I prefer the big block combos....H/F series are the dominant combination that fits what I need and it also saves a ton of money while still being able to run 10's NA

Most K swaps make 175-195whp NA.....an F20B swap will put down the same power only the F20B motor is 1100...vs K20a2 street price.

We can do some math
F20B + 800 for trans + 750 for adapter (uses B series mounts) 2650 + simple B series axles and ECU gear (P28 etc.)

How much will a K20a2 cost you?
4000 for full swap + K pro + special axles + shifter box + mounts + special header etc...

Nearly identical power figures but how much more is that K swap gonna cost the avg street guy with 200-215whp? ALOT MORE

I know its easy to bandwagon ride and just throw in "K swap" for swap advice but its not always the right answer.

At this moment in time the H2B is the bang for the buck king --- in time the K may take over as supply increases but we can only talk about TODAY.

[SergEK]

Originally Posted by ef legacy

but if you are sayn 11's trapping 120-129, better b a ten in my book, better learn how to drive or take up knitting.

You barely broke 11's and you were only 3 mph away from 120?

If 120 = 10's Wouldnt 117 be DEEP 11's

Maybe you should take your own advice or realize 120 trap DOES NOT GUARANTEE SHIT

[XmugenX5]

well everyone has there own... i say the G23 = the h23 block with the h22 head cheap to make and very powerful and great on boost if built right and the f20b

[SergEK]

Originally Posted by XmugenX5

well everyone has there own... i say the G23 = the h23 block with the h22 head cheap to make and very powerful and great on boost if built right and the f20b

What you described is an H2B swap

[Kemo606]

well if you are trying to go turbo, then I wouldnt go for either of those motors because those are high price, all motor, type r engines. if you were going to go all motor then I would stick with those choices and go with ITB's or something like that, way more reliable for a daily driver. But if you dont care about that and just want to make mad power then for turbo I would go with B18C or B16A Shiz even LS/Vtec lol just because the motor is cheaper, saving money for internals because youre going to need them. I would just change pistons and rods (if you can build the block) for sure and valve springs also if you are going to rev higher, and then a good fuel managment system to get everything tuned out which is also a must.

[b16inside]

Originally Posted by Kemo606

well if you are trying to go turbo, then I wouldnt go for either of those motors because those are high price, all motor, type r engines. if you were going to go all motor then I would stick with those choices and go with ITB's or something like that, way more reliable for a daily driver. But if you dont care about that and just want to make mad power then for turbo I would go with B18C or B16A Shiz even LS/Vtec lol just because the motor is cheaper, saving money for internals because youre going to need them. I would just change pistons and rods (if you can build the block) for sure and valve springs also if you are going to rev higher, and then a good fuel managment system to get everything tuned out which is also a must.

sigh :facepalm: