I'm doing the short shifter today.
If you check crvownersclub and hondasuv they both have crv's for sale on there a lot. There is one in Tn. that just dropped his 2k!
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ok, big update now......
So I did the front and rear bars today. The intake I had was modified to fit with the new bar. It's ok, but I will prob change it later. It is just intercooler piping anyway.The rear bar took some major modifying to get it to fit as far as cutting and trimming and drilling, but no welding needed It def is so much of a difference drivcing it, I can honestly say I cant even feel a difference in the front one being added on as well, all I feel is how nice the rear is now!The spoon oil and tranny magnetic plugs will go in next time I do fluids, and the hid's should be in tomorrow. I will take the bumpers off to hide the ballasts, and try to keep the bay clean. Because they are hid high/low I do have to wire in for power and ground, but I will def keep that looking as great as possible hidden. I also have some engine bay shots here of the two sides by the suspention on top. This is to show the "wire hideing", deleted brackets, some painted and modified ones (like the throttle cable bracket) and to show the trick windshield washer tube tuck! btw I also have the jdm badge on there, DONT JUDGE ME , it was free, may come off and I had it on my old car......new pics so far....... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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So I had to swap out my a/c control lights, because one had blown, and I put in larger ones with no coloured condom over it to make it brighter, and while I was there I was thinking......I wonder if the pocket that slides out down here is actually a single din slot.....and I wonder if I can put my radio down there and put a Double Din honda block off plate on top to make it look like we all have done on civics since 92!
So I started modifying and adapting and making custom brackets and trimming, and this is what I have! Now I can go back to the oem look if I want, I didnt modify anything to much to make it not go back and no one would be able to tell from the front end what I did. Only downfall I didnt think of......this radio doesnt have a angle freindly display like some pioneers do, so I have to just use the remote. I will see, I might change it back. PICS>>>>> Before...... ![]() ![]() After..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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ok, here is some crappy cell pics of two seperate and very different type's of led mods I have done with my co-worker when bored over the last couple weeks. The first set is pics from what it looks like, regular led's taken from any device, in our case it was how many can we get for a low cost. So a 9 led flash light for $4 for instance from lowes, or from a lantern like shown in the pics. Later we ordered led's off ebay for a very good price and they were beyond what we could have ever hoped for in brightness and colour. The second set of pics is for us, the HID's of l.e.d. lights, and we will from now on abandon all others, and replace the originals already done.
The first pics should be self explanitory, we did the guage lights and a/c lights. taken apart... ![]() replaced the only two a/c bulbs ![]() replaced top two highlight bulbs ![]() rear, replaced two bulbs on the sides in the centre ![]() removed from unit ![]() donor unit ![]() desoldered leds ![]() tools ![]() poping out the oem bulb to re-use the base ![]() 560k resistor ![]() old bulb and new led getting ready to be swapped ![]() led with resister added in ready to add to oem bulb socket ![]() Lets see how bright it is first ![]() ![]() So the next pics are of our new improved set up. Much brighter, much whiter. We needed circuit board for this, and more precise soldering, but doing them in series x4 made the use of resiters obsolete. Map light taken half apart, and you can see the new style leds on the board, soldered in series from the rear end and soldered onto the opem bulb "holder" leads ![]() old vs. new in a very well lit room btw ![]() old vs new installed ![]() old vs new with the cover on to distribute the map lights better. ![]() After we did the map lights, the piaa dome lights I had originally looked oem, and those were fantastic at first over the drab oem bulbs, so they came out and the same setup was used to replace them. Again 4 leds on a board and it fit right in the oem prongs like butter ![]() Sorry for the shitty cell pics, but this again is some of the things we do at work when we get bored, just like the cam/camgear we made into a lamp
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well I put the obx muffler on and removed the low ass resonator, and painted all my suspention and brake set ups front and back. With the exaust also painted matte black it looks awsome! But with a gutted cat and no resonator it sounds like shit! To loud and raspy. I will prob go to put in a new cat and see if that helps the raspy sound. The tone and how low the sound is, is awsome, but if your more than 20% on the throttle or over 3 grand in the rpm's. it gets real raspy and sounds like a 17 year old rice bucket.
![]() So short and sweet, Looks great, sound, not so great. Ok so here is a pic of my new exaust..... ![]() Next we have the how to on the short shifter. Basically it is the kit for the honda fit, and the "cup" from a '06 civic. You dont end up using anything from the kit other than the extender. You reuse the factory bolts AND the factory bushings, just a different way. Ok, here is a pic of the oem set up apart, your new civic cup will fit inside the oem plastic cup. It is easier to also remove the carpet section underneath the factory botom plastic to gain access to lining up the gaskets later.... ![]() This pic is of the extention added on already to the oem shifter bottom. The allen key bolts a a bit weird to get in and tight. Also if your looking at your oem piece right now you will see a section that I removed. it is a decent size, and so the right cable doesnt hit the oem plastic now that the angles and heights are different..... ![]() The next pic shows the oem parts you will reuse in the order it must go in when rebolting. So the oem bolt will go through the plastic shelf (shifting plastic block) as it did before, BUT the gaskets will now be situated as shown here. picture the bolt going into the next piece as shown, into the one following as shown. It is important not to have the washer portion that is built into the sleeve rubber piece facing down. This will let the whole shifter flex, and it wont work, so everything must ba facing as it is in this pic..... ![]() Here is the side view installed. It is a little higher than stock, but with my skunk 2 weighted shift knob it feels fantastic. All the plastics and carpet fit back oem and it is solid. Remember this is not just 2 rubber pieces together as spaces, they are more there for looks, the metal channel (tube) is what is acting as the spacer for the whole system. ![]() I think the best way to do it would have been with the oem bolt and 8 skunk 2 spacers, but it only has 4. I used the oem bolt because the washer is a better fit.
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Last edited by Illegal; 09-01-2009 at 09:28 PM. |
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tomorrow I may try to take it all apart again, and see if the one spacer will work with the bracket hammered down so it doesnt catch the cup, to get that whole thing lower. This is how the inventor of this kit did it, I'm just gonna see if I can do it better
(different)
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More pics tonight, but I re-did the spacers, and used the skunk 2 provided solid spacer and 2 washers after flatening down a metal lip on a bracket, and it is lower than the other way I did it at first. Still works great, and in my opinion, it is a MUST HAVE for anyopne with a gen 1 manual!
BTW if a mod see's this, can I please have this thread re-named "Illegal's Build Thread" Please
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update. So I went back the next day and redid the mounting situation. I used the skunk 2 spacer with a couple washers, beat down a tiny lip that was on t bracket so the cup wouldnt catch, and it is much stiffer! Here are the final pics......
![]() ![]() ![]() gotta use the right hardware for the job I love this shift knob and this company....![]() I also took the rear spacers out from my suspention, and was now able to lower the rear of the car the extra inch or more i wanted, so now it is level and from the ground to the bottom of the fender it is 26 1/2 inch's tall in the front and maybe only a 1/4 inch higher in the back Also got a new sticker on the car, and a couple of pedo bears....better pics of all that later, these were all cell pics becasue I wasnt at home.
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I had some down time after work again, so I re-did my intake, to make it fit better after the strut bar went in and got in the way, and started to mock up a possible air box for the intake as well to keep hot air out. Not sure if I am going to go through with it or not, but it was just a quick trow together, and I havent put it in yet, but here are some pics
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So what do you think? Should I do it?
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