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n/a tuning a ls/vtec


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Old 10-22-2003, 03:52 PM
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n/a tuning a ls/vtec

i have a 94' gsr head on a 99' ls block and was wnating to go the N/A route. i want my car w/ full interior and 18's to be pulling 13's but especially to pull at highway speeds. I want to drop gear and take off much like the beamers do. They are slow off the line but they pull hell a hard on mid to top end. I have all the basic bolt ons w/ a act heavy duty clutch and short shifter. Any suggestions as to which head components i should get, ecu, manifold, all that kind of stuff. But i want it to be a daily driver w/ no problems and also am not looking to spend more then 2k-3.5k for the parts only. Any comments or ideas would be really helpful.
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Old 10-22-2003, 05:07 PM
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ok, so you want to run an all motor setup.

many people will tell you, this hobby aint cheap. if i was you and you really want to make power, build that block and get yourself some big cams, port and polish and switch to obd 1.

you can go the cheaper route staying with oem parts for the block and stock gsr head.

oh yeah, and since when are beamers fast. yes they are quick but i never though they were slow off the line and pull hard on top end. before you jump the gun, i would do some research and see how much power you want to make and how.

i hate to disrespect but i cant believe people are actually into street racing and searching for people to race on the street. its nice to drive around and have a friendly race here and there, but dont be stupid. i especially cant stand those retarded and iggnorant bmw and honda owners who dont know shit. so do everyone a favor, and keep the racing on the track, because people get hurt.....know what i mean.
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:18 PM
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Re: n/a tuning a ls/vtec

Quote:
Originally posted by buddyclubls/gsr
i have a 94' gsr head on a 99' ls block and was wnating to go the N/A route. i want my car w/ full interior and 18's to be pulling 13's but especially to pull at highway speeds. I want to drop gear and take off much like the beamers do. They are slow off the line but they pull hell a hard on mid to top end. I have all the basic bolt ons w/ a act heavy duty clutch and short shifter. Any suggestions as to which head components i should get, ecu, manifold, all that kind of stuff. But i want it to be a daily driver w/ no problems and also am not looking to spend more then 2k-3.5k for the parts only. Any comments or ideas would be really helpful.
Running 13's on 18inch wheels in N/A form is going to be next to impossible with that amount of money. If you want a good top end car for freeway pull, I recommend a 4-1 header with a 2.5inch collector, test pipe, and 2.5inch piping/exhaust. With an LS/Vtec, I personally prefer a B16 head with ITR pistons and ARP rod bolts to back up the revs. But if you choose to keep the GSR head, just be careful, as the compression will be higher. With the valve reliefs in the ITR pistons, you can run a bigger set of cams like Skunk stage 2's, or Jun III"s along with a an upgraded valvetrain to give you some more pull. An upgraded ECU and FPR with a VAFC is a good combo to take with you to the dyno for some tuning.
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Old 10-23-2003, 11:26 PM
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sell the GSR head complete with everything in it, pick up a b16a complete head, shouldn't cost you anything, pick up a Skunk 2 IM for $250, and a used ITR TB for $170.
Add CTR pistons plus labour - $350
Skunk 2 Stage 2 Cams - $799 (cheaper then jun,toda) that's why i am suggesting them, since we are trying to save $$$
Skunk 2 valve springs - $240
honadata, installed & tuned - $575
install a 4.7 Final drive after that for $375
that is around $3K, should be quick, 18's ain't helping you, 15's or 16's and you will definelty pull low 13's possible high 12's if you toss like 200lbs in weight and get GOOD tires
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Old 11-12-2003, 08:09 PM
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The 18's are really a good Idea in my opinion. < That was a statement. Well the GSR (aka B18C1) head is better for all out LS-Vtec than the B16A Head. < Now thats just stating facts. I recommed the whole port and polish idea and some crower springs and retainers with some Skunk2 Cams. (Word around the grapevine is that they perform better than the Jun Cams overall. Which should actually mean something.) Get a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 4-1 Header ( I like the JDM one). If you plan on amping up the compression ration you should also get a block guard. And with that in mind you should get either stronger rods (Crower or Eagle) or Shot-peen your current rods. Economically the new rods would be better b.c you can have a better peace of mind if you do any more mods. Also if you wanna take off quick change your tranny to the YS1 ( I believe thats the same one that have in the 99-01 Civic S1, Their ratio allows you to rip quicker but they cost a golden penny where I live). Remember this is all my 2 cents. And if your a college student like myself then your best Idea is to ride the bus for a while. :0
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Old 12-11-2003, 11:49 AM
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I meant 18's in correlation to the B18C1's.
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Old 12-11-2003, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Falkien
Well the GSR (aka B18C1) head is better for all out LS-Vtec than the B16A Head. < Now thats just stating facts. I recommed the whole port and polish idea and some crower springs and retainers with some Skunk2 Cams. (Word around the grapevine is that they perform better than the Jun Cams overall. Which should actually mean something.) Get a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and a 4-1 Header ( I like the JDM one). If you plan on amping up the compression ration you should also get a block guard.
not trying to get on your case, but i would never say you can make more power with skunk 2 cams than jun cams because that is the word going around. you can make comparisons between cams and their specs. But how do you know a gsr head is better than a b16 head for all out lsvtec. whats the fact? A gsr head could be better, but you need to understand that you might need a different engine combination between an lsvtec/gsr head and an lsvtec/b16 head to achieve the same goals. it doesnt just boil down to what head is the best. Hear what im smellin'?

its all about the engine combination of pistons, rods, cams, bolt ons and tuning to get the best results your looking for. its how your entire setup works together to produce as much cylinder pressure and volumetric effeciency as possible which equals more power.

that is the general goal in making power. how you go about doing it depends on your entire setup. Its not just this or that head and bottom end because some dude said it or that is what everyone is doing these days. know what i mean. you did give some nice examples like stating what cams, valve train, etc. My statement is not a fact. Just my opinion
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Last edited by JerseySiPOS; 12-11-2003 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 12-11-2003, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JerseySiPOS


i hate to disrespect but i cant believe people are actually into street racing and searching for people to race on the street. its nice to drive around and have a friendly race here and there, but dont be stupid. i especially cant stand those retarded and iggnorant bmw and honda owners who dont know shit. so do everyone a favor, and keep the racing on the track, because people get hurt.....know what i mean.
And this is comming from a guy that used spend entire trips down 1&9 with me IN THIRD GEAR!!! hahahaha

give it up POPS, u know youd jump all over any Si u see on the street first chance u get!!!!
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Old 12-11-2003, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 92hatchattack
And this is comming from a guy that used spend entire trips down 1&9 with me IN THIRD GEAR!!! hahahaha

give it up POPS, u know youd jump all over any Si u see on the street first chance u get!!!!

bwahahahaahah, actually i was too much of a pussy to do those 3rd drops haha. yeah of course i enjoy the occasional race when i see one, but im just a bigger fan of the track. thats me. ok mr. go like 300 mph. hahaha kidding. damn joe your crazy.
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Old 12-11-2003, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JerseySiPOS
bwahahahaahah, actually i was too much of a pussy to do those 3rd drops haha. yeah of course i enjoy the occasional race when i see one, but im just a bigger fan of the track. thats me. ok mr. go like 300 mph. hahaha kidding. damn joe your crazy.
you can't race anymore.. cuz you just drive mommy's station wagon now

one true thing Elo said.. people can get hurt and second.. unless you have money to cover your ass on insurance and speeding tickets.. don't. I do it less and less now cuz in 6 months to a year im moving out and i wanna keep my insurance as low as i can. Although i love the rush of it and i miss it... 1/4 racing is for hobbiest and pros.. street racers do it for the rush
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Old 12-12-2003, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mk4gti
you can't race anymore.. cuz you just drive mommy's station wagon now

one true thing Elo said.. people can get hurt and second.. unless you have money to cover your ass on insurance and speeding tickets.. don't. I do it less and less now cuz in 6 months to a year im moving out and i wanna keep my insurance as low as i can. Although i love the rush of it and i miss it... 1/4 racing is for hobbiest and pros.. street racers do it for the rush
haha, sorry man, dont be jealous because i have an suv for you to smoke the shit outta and drink beers if you wanted to. haha. kidding

good point about the track and street racing. you pretty much summed up track whores and street racers. ok dont wanna get off topic. sorry
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Last edited by JerseySiPOS; 12-12-2003 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 12-12-2003, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jason@IA
sell the GSR head complete with everything in it, pick up a b16a complete head, shouldn't cost you anything, pick up a Skunk 2 IM for $250, and a used ITR TB for $170.
Add CTR pistons plus labour - $350
Skunk 2 Stage 2 Cams - $799 (cheaper then jun,toda) that's why i am suggesting them, since we are trying to save $$$
Skunk 2 valve springs - $240
honadata, installed & tuned - $575
install a 4.7 Final drive after that for $375
that is around $3K, should be quick, 18's ain't helping you, 15's or 16's and you will definelty pull low 13's possible high 12's if you toss like 200lbs in weight and get GOOD tires
uhm...where you get this labor rate from? $350 for pistons and piston install? maybe if you do it yourself...

standard "AMERICAN" mechanic labor rate is 85 bucks any hour and open up your head is 12 hours. Now for a regular mechanic..they want atleast 500 to pull the block out and install the piston...so where is all this price come from?

hondata installed and tuned for $575? and FD installed for $375?

damn..i love this price.

Jeff-
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Old 12-12-2003, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CorporalJeff
uhm...where you get this labor rate from? $350 for pistons and piston install? maybe if you do it yourself...

standard "AMERICAN" mechanic labor rate is 85 bucks any hour and open up your head is 12 hours. Now for a regular mechanic..they want atleast 500 to pull the block out and install the piston...so where is all this price come from?

hondata installed and tuned for $575? and FD installed for $375?

damn..i love this price.

Jeff-
damn, you were put that hondata in my car. you didnt tell me it was that much haha kidding

in that case you can go to home depot and get a do-it-yourself book
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Old 12-12-2003, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CorporalJeff
uhm...where you get this labor rate from? $350 for pistons and piston install? maybe if you do it yourself...

standard "AMERICAN" mechanic labor rate is 85 bucks any hour and open up your head is 12 hours. Now for a regular mechanic..they want atleast 500 to pull the block out and install the piston...so where is all this price come from?

hondata installed and tuned for $575? and FD installed for $375?

damn..i love this price.

Jeff-
damn ... high prices ..... i know where im NOT getting my work done .. heh Jeff!!!!! hahahaha JK bro
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Old 12-12-2003, 09:37 PM
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werd fuckers

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