16a2 in a crx what will i run

[diggla]

hey whats up guys. im new here just joined today.i have a 89 crx hf its everything is gutted except for the a/c and dash and door pannels.i just resently drop an b16a2 in it, i have the basics aem c.a.i header and catback system.for my suspension i have tein basic coiloversand i have some rota subzeros on kumos . i was just wondering can anyone tell me what i would be running if i had these mods.i want to go all toda and mugen.
p&p head,valve job,toda stage b camshafts,toda camgears,toda valves and retainers,toda header,toda lightend flywheel,toda clutch kit,type r intake manifold,toda headertoda timing belt,toda flywheel,mugen headgasket,mugen thermalstat,ctr rods and pistons for that good compresion,hondata s200.i know this will cost a lot but i have a good job to back me up. so if anyone can tell me what they think i might run in the 1/4 mile.thanks

[MrCrx]

high 14s the way it is, probley around low 13s with those mods you listed you could probley pull a high 12 on slicks. but thats just a guess. bad driver/good driver bad engine builder/good enginebuilder. good luck with project. Rob

[mZ]

My eDYNO says u will have 175whp with good tuning and my eDRAPSTRIP says 13.4 with you driving.

My eMOUTH wants to say... why do people ask questions like this? If your going after a certain build up, you should know the "results" from it, there must have been a reason you want that particular build.

You need to start with a goal, not a "NAME". Once you figure out your goals with the motor, you can decide on "brands" that will fit your budget.

-chuck

[MrCrx]

My eMOUTH wants to say... why do people ask questions like this? If your going after a certain build up, you should know the "results" from it, there must have been a reason you want that particular build.

Very well said

[diggla]

my buget can can fit any "name brand",and i know what my goal is. thanks mr crx for your info

[MrCrx]

noproblem, and nobody means any harm. this question comes up alot is all. depending on your e/t goal I would think about stepping up a few things. rob

[mZ]

Originally posted by diggla
my buget can can fit any "name brand",and i know what my goal is. thanks mr crx for your info

www.ericksracing.com
go buy the 2.0 crate motor. starts at $6500.

[Holly]

Originally posted by chuckdizzL


My eMOUTH wants to say... why do people ask questions like this? If your going after a certain build up, you should know the "results" from it, there must have been a reason you want that particular build.

You need to start with a goal, not a "NAME". Once you figure out your goals with the motor, you can decide on "brands" that will fit your budget.

-chuck

HAHAHAHAHAHA

Word

[SergEK]

Drop a POS B18C5 into a CRX = high 12's with me driving

I can run mid 13's with a 2600lbs EK hatch (me in it) on drag radials

You dont need a "built" motor to run my times with a crx

Do some research, "name" shit is pointless unless you know the facts.....Mugen shit? How many drag guys use it? Very few if any.....Toda B's at the strip? Again very few...

If you are looking to build a good drag motor Toda D's, JUN 3's are probably the cams youll want to use, along with ARP rod bolts, head studs and misc hardware.

I am going to run JUN 3's, Toda valve springs, and a Mugen Headgasket.....I use what works NOT because of the "name"....I know guys who do the "only spoon" fuckin motors and put out what mild ITR's put out.....its how the parts work TOGETHER thats important...NOT the name

[mZ]

alot of people use toda b's for drag. along with JUN 3's. Toda D's are a bit extreme for street use. with good tuning toda b's and jun 3's are both good for 200whp.

[SergEK]

Originally posted by chuckdizzL
alot of people use toda b's for drag. along with JUN 3's. Toda D's are a bit extreme for street use. with good tuning toda b's and jun 3's are both good for 200whp.

Toda Spec A 11.6 mm, duration - 250 @ 1mm 11.2mm, duration - 240 @ 1mm
Toda Spec B 12 mm,duration - 255 @ 1mm 12 mm, duration - 245 @ 1mm
Toda Spec C 12.5 mm,duration - 255 @ 1mm 12.5 mm, duration - 255 @ 1mm

Jun Type 1 10.9 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm 10.0 mm, duration - 268 @ 1mm
Jun Type 2 12.0 mm, duration - 266.6 @ 1mm 10.9 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm
Jun Type 3 12.0 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm 11.5 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm


Look at the duration Specs......top end power = JUN 3's kick the crap out of Toda B's....but what do I know...I'm just a silly drag racer

[mZ]

yeah I'm sure you know everything. I didnt disagree with you. I'm runing JUN 3's in my setup too. Don't count out TODA B's at the strip... I will repeat, they are good for 200whp+ If you want to save some money you can go with skank2 stage2's, they are along the same spec's as JUN3/TODAb.

Toda spec D's are for serious tunning on mostly full drag cars. Along with Top Fuel drag cams & s2s3, I would not use them in a street car.

[SergEK]

Originally posted by chuckdizzL
yeah I'm sure you know everything. I didnt disagree with you. I'm runing JUN 3's in my setup too. Don't count out TODA B's at the strip... I will repeat, they are good for 200whp+ If you want to save some money you can go with skank2 stage2's, they are along the same spec's as JUN3/TODAb.

Toda spec D's are for serious tunning on mostly full drag cars. Along with Top Fuel drag cams & s2s3, I would not use them in a street car.

My friend runs Toda D's in his street car....240whp

I never said I knew everything but comparing Toda B to JUN 3 at the strip......its pretty common knowledge JUN 3's own for drag....The mid range numbers on the B are nice but its more of a matter of lower duration/ big lift specs ....

200whp is childs play and there are 100's of setups that could hit 200whp with a B series....torque production and power curve are where the lines are drawn in the sand and AVG hp is a huge element....with a drag motor shifting at 9500 in an ITR tranny the rpms only drop about 2000 rpm so from 7500-9500 what cam makes more power......JUN 3....what good would "mid range power" be if your never at 6500 at the strip?

So if he drags JUN 3's are the best choice for a mild street motor, if he wants to add compression they will respond nicely, ITB's....like butter....if he road races maybe he wants more mid range....but sounds like drag to me

[mZ]

and every person building a motor wants 225+ whp because 200whp is just childs play. Did u read the person's post??? the title isnt "I want a full drag motor that I can drive on the street".

everyone has a friend running toda d's in a street car pushing near 240whp. its the cool thing to say before or after u make a point.

oh yeah... my friend runs toda d's in his street car. pushing 230+ with ITB's! (hi rob ) doesnt mean ever person who wants to build a nice all motor honda wants that.

[SergEK]

Originally posted by chuckdizzL
and every person building a motor wants 225+ whp because 200whp is just childs play. Did u read the person's post??? the title isnt "I want a full drag motor that I can drive on the street".

everyone has a friend running toda d's in a street car pushing near 240whp. its the cool thing to say before or after u make a point.

oh yeah... my friend runs toda d's in his street car. pushing 230+ with ITB's! (hi rob ) doesnt mean ever person who wants to build a nice all motor honda wants that.

p&p head,valve job,toda stage b camshafts,toda camgears,toda valves and retainers,toda header,toda lightend flywheel,toda clutch kit,type r intake manifold,toda headertoda timing belt,toda flywheel,mugen headgasket,mugen thermalstat,ctr rods and pistons for that good compresion,hondata s200.i know this will cost a lot

And the avg person wants to spend more than $6000 on a fucking mild build motor too right?

I guess reading comprehension owns you because in my neighborhood when your laying down 6 g's I would imagine they are aiming for a little more than 195whp.....but maybe in oregon 6 g's for 200whp on top of a motor swap is cake

Read the guys original post.....does it sound like he wants to spend a grip for POWER or just to have 2 toda headers on his motor

And my friends are in Cali and the motor in question was built by Ericks racing....I should have bought it for 7 g's when I had the chance but alas...I am not a baller from oregon