New to 240's

[WunHungLo]

could be a number of things. first try cleaning out your IACV with some carb cleaner or some throttle body cleaner. just spray it directly into the hose off the intake piping while the car is running making sure it doesn't die out by giving it a little gas. then switch out your coolant temp sensor with another factory one. then make sure your MAF is plugged in. my clip on my MAF was missing and would sometimes wiggle itself loose. it wouldn't hurt to clean it up with some specified MAF cleaner as well. these were the 3 main things when my KA was acting up.

[jaracinghatch]

thanks, i will check that out now, i got some other ideas from another forum as well. looks like i have a busy day. i will let y'all know what happens

[ef legacy]

Originally Posted by jaracinghatch

thanks, i will check that out now, i got some other ideas from another forum as well. looks like i have a busy day. i will let y'all know what happens

good luck!

[SoSideways]

Originally Posted by WunHungLo

could be a number of things. first try cleaning out your IACV with some carb cleaner or some throttle body cleaner. just spray it directly into the hose off the intake piping while the car is running making sure it doesn't die out by giving it a little gas. then switch out your coolant temp sensor with another factory one. then make sure your MAF is plugged in. my clip on my MAF was missing and would sometimes wiggle itself loose. it wouldn't hurt to clean it up with some specified MAF cleaner as well. these were the 3 main things when my KA was acting up.

Geez, blindly buying parts hoping to fix stuff huh? hahaha

Might as well test it out w/ a multimeter first, just to be sure the part is bad, before throwing money into it that could otherwise be spent elsewhere.

[jaracinghatch]

first i am checking all the grounds, then the AIV, clean the throttle body, and finally clean the IACV. if that does or don't work i will let you guys know. i am checking all the free stuff first. i like to trouble shoot before i buy anything

[ef legacy]

Originally Posted by SoSideways

Geez, blindly buying parts hoping to fix stuff huh? hahaha

Might as well test it out w/ a multimeter first, just to be sure the part is bad, before throwing money into it that could otherwise be spent elsewhere.

its just a coolant temp switch, thats the only thing he said to buy, i think the guy can manage to get one.

[WunHungLo]

Originally Posted by SoSideways

Geez, blindly buying parts hoping to fix stuff huh? hahaha

Might as well test it out w/ a multimeter first, just to be sure the part is bad, before throwing money into it that could otherwise be spent elsewhere.

lol. 15 bucks for a coolant temp sensor? but hey, i'm a parts backcounter guy. i LOVE when my technicians throw parts at cars hoping it fixes them. more commission for me.

[jaracinghatch]

i removed the AIV, and it worked. but i am sure to have more questions as time progresses

[SoSideways]

Originally Posted by WunHungLo

lol. 15 bucks for a coolant temp sensor? but hey, i'm a parts backcounter guy. i LOVE when my technicians throw parts at cars hoping it fixes them. more commission for me.

Oh hell.

OEM parts hook upz!!

BTW I wasn't just referring to this particular situation when I made my comment about blindly throwing parts at the car to try and fix it.

If you had an occasional stumble in your idle and you have no idea what's causing it, and then start to blindly throw parts at the car to try and fix it, then not only will it get expensive fast, but you may never fix it, because you've never figured out what's causing it in the first place.

That's all I was trying to say.

$15 for a CTS is not bad. I thought they were like $35+?

[jaracinghatch]

ok so i am looking into lsd or welded diff. i found an OBX lsd for like 300. but most i look at is like 500-800. i have read a little bit on welded diff. i have read that it works great except for auto x, but i don't plan on doing that. i just wanna be able to slide this bitch. any help would be great......thanx

[SoSideways]

OBX is a helical, kinda like the S15 LSD, which is gear driven and will push the power to the wheel with the most traction when cornering, but not that great for drifting as it tends to act weird when both wheels are spinning.

Welded is ok as long as you don't mind scuffing/chirping tires in low speed tight corners like in the parking lots or whatever. It will decrease tire life in the rear if you daily drive the car as well as track it.

Clutch type LSDs are the best to own if you plan on daily driving the car and drifting, and even auto-x'ing and circuit racing the car. Both rear wheels lock up via clutch packs inside the LSD unit, and depending on the slip between the 2 wheels and the cam's position within the LSD from acceleration or deceleration, the LSD will provide lock up on both wheels. In low speed situations like parking lots and stuff, the LSD should let both wheels spin independent of each other, thus enabling you to park without scuffing/chirping the rear tires, at the expense of the clutch packs rubbing against each other and making loud popping and clunking noises.



That's a simple break down of what the 2 most common non viscous LSDs do and how they work, as well as the welded.

Read up on it and read up on people's feed back about their experience with their choice of diff, and see which one you would prefer after you've read some reviews.

I have a feeling that the clutch type LSD would be your best bet, but if you want to cheap out and don't care about tire wear, then welded would be fine.

[jaracinghatch]

yeah i have read up on each of them, but you(SoSidways) are kinda like my goto guy.....lol. you seem to know a lot about 240's. i think welded is the way i am going

[Riego_B]

As stated, the clutch type LSD is the best route. I had a welded in my daily for almost a year and the only downside is tire wear. Its not like slightly worse tire wear, its eat through tires in a couple months and even faster if your sliding it alot.

I was replacing rear tires every 3-4 months if I wasnt sliding and every 1-2 months if I was sliding it more. Just find a good junk yard hook up that can get you cheap used tires and you'll be set. The local Nissan yard was selling me pairs of 16's for $40 since I came in so often lol

[jaracinghatch]

i got the hookup on tires so that don't bother me

[SoSideways]

Originally Posted by Riego_B

As stated, the clutch type LSD is the best route. I had a welded in my daily for almost a year and the only downside is tire wear. Its not like slightly worse tire wear, its eat through tires in a couple months and even faster if your sliding it alot.

I was replacing rear tires every 3-4 months if I wasnt sliding and every 1-2 months if I was sliding it more. Just find a good junk yard hook up that can get you cheap used tires and you'll be set. The local Nissan yard was selling me pairs of 16's for $40 since I came in so often lol

You might want to look into your alignment, because I daily drove my S13 and I've had welded for 2 years now, and to be honest, I haven't had the money to hit up the track in these 2 years, and for the better part of a year and a half I had a pair of brand new Falken ZE-912s put on the rear rims, and right now, they look to be 30-40% tread left on the very insides, and towards the outsides they look almost brand new still.

All I did was an eye ball type alignment at home, mainly to make sure that I don't have excessive toe in, which is what killed my previous Kumho MX in no time after I got the welded diff on.