New to 240's

Riego_B · #61 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 04:24 PM

Part of it is buying used tires that are already at like 50-60% when I got them, but the welded is gone now anyway and tire wear has been great so far...

But a welded is a good way to start IMO, i miss my welded sometimes, it was plenty good for me on a DD

SoSideways · #62 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:11 PM

If you drive your car hard all the time, then welded is a very good alternative, because you know exactly what the rear end of your car will do, ergo the rear end is very predictable, and the car will feel like it's easier to drive.

jaracinghatch · #63 (**permalink**) 05-09-2009, 07:50 AM

well that is exactly what i am going for

jaracinghatch · #64 (**permalink**) 05-19-2009, 07:50 AM

question of the day, my heat doesn't work....WTF? any ideas? pretty cold this morning when i got off work, and i froze my ass off all the way home

**Nachtmensch** · #65 (**permalink**) 05-19-2009, 08:01 AM

do the coolant hoses get warm?

jaracinghatch · #66 (**permalink**) 05-19-2009, 03:39 PM

you talking about the rad hoses?

SoSideways · #67 (**permalink**) 05-19-2009, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaracinghatch

you talking about the rad hoses?

Yes those.

jaracinghatch · #68 (**permalink**) 05-19-2009, 05:15 PM

i will check, but i gotta go to work tonite. if they do or dont get hot, what do i look for then

SoSideways · #69 (**permalink**) 05-19-2009, 05:23 PM

If one gets hot while the other doesn't, then that means there's a blockage somewhere, probably the thermostat, causing no coolant to flow into the block, thus no coolant gets to the heater element to warm you up.

If the hoses are both hot, then there could be a leak somewhere, causing coolant not to reach the heater element.

**WunHungLo** · #70 (**permalink**) 05-20-2009, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoSideways

If one gets hot while the other doesn't, then that means there's a blockage somewhere, probably the thermostat, causing no coolant to flow into the block, thus no coolant gets to the heater element to warm you up.

If the hoses are both hot, then there could be a leak somewhere, causing coolant not to reach the heater element.

or the heater core could be clogged with rust.

jaracinghatch · #71 (**permalink**) 05-20-2009, 07:54 AM

i think it is the thermostat, thanks guys

handinpants · #72 (**permalink**) 05-31-2009, 03:10 AM

save money up and buy a good set of coilovers with camber plates, it's worth it. I have apexi N1 Evolution Pro Drift dampers in my car, and they were worth the $. as far as rotors go, but some new ones.

jaracinghatch · #73 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 11:25 AM

didn't feel like making another thread,

alright, my ka24de has alot of miles on it. it leaks oil and burns oil. i was thinking of rebuilding it and going KA-T. i have noticed that there is more support for the sr20, than the ka. so my question is, should i spend the time and money on the ka, or just get a swap and call it a day. trying for the easiest way out. if the sr20 is the way to go, could u suggest somewhere to get one from?

alexanderig · #74 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 11:43 AM

Depends where you live. Try ebay lol. Anyways here there's a lot of shops that sell sr's. I say you go sr20det. It comes on boost already and is a good building block. Ka-t is just a hassle in my opinion. For the price ur going to boost u can get an sr with better mileage- minus the headaches u currently have with the ka. I'm planning on going sr.and resale on a 240 with ka-t isn't anything compared to 240 with a clean sr swap. That's my .02 cents

jaracinghatch · #75 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 01:03 PM

that is what i was thinking, i found a couple of sites that sell them from 1400 to 1800. just wondering what some good sites are

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